After seven weeks of sitting tight in our Oslo apartment we did five weeks of touring the north. Not a bad deal at all!
The northern Norwegian summer is about the cool breeze, the bright lights and the smell of seaweed. We have our own house on the island of Dønna, where we go every summer. This year we also opted for 10 days in and around the Lofoten archipelago, on normal summers packed with Americans in rented sedans and Dutch and Germans in camper caravans. This summer the Germans were few and far between. The Norwegians came instead, us included, but not in the same numbers. The end result was a bit more space on the local roads and a bit less money for the local travel operators, but as a whole Lofoten avoided the total corona disaster. We are not so surprised; the area is simply too good to be left standing empty!
We took our car all the way from Oslo, driving the 1400 kilometers to Narvik before we headed west towards Leknes on the island of Vestvågøy where we had rented a house for a week. For DHH it was partly a nostalgia-trip, his family comes from this part of Norway and back thru the generations he has a number of grandfathers, great grandfathers, uncles and grand uncles and his father who all took part in the Lofoten winter fisheries. Every year from January to early April they were based in villages like Reine and Svolvær and Skrova, places that were all on our list of destinations.
It was the cod that made this weather-beaten string of rocks one of the richest areas in Scandinavia. The work was hard and dangerous, but those who were tough enough to handle the labour and lucky enough to survive the storms could end up gathering great riches. The wealth is still there today. There are a bit fewer active fishermen, but in addition the tourists come in their thousands to stay in the houses where the fishermen used to live and to enjoy the harsh nature that the fishermen used to fight in order to survive.
The surfer’s haven, the village of Unstad, Vestvågøy.
There is not so much to say about the Norwegian coastline that has not been said already, both by us and by many others. We rather leave you with a selection of our pictures from this year’s tour!
On the road again, doing the 1500 km drive north from Oslo to the Lofoten islands.
As the miles fly by…
An overnight camping north of Mo i Rana
Entering the land of the cloudberry, ES’ all time favorite!
We rented a house by the seaside in Leknes, Vestvågøy!
Fiskerkonen – The Fisherman’s wife – a local landmark right outside our windows.
We did have the odd rainy day, but with such a great house, who cares!
Supporting the local custom, having whale for dinner!
Our view of the Lofoten sunset.
Lofotr Vikingmuseum at Borg, Vestvågøy
A reconstructed Viking outfit.
The Lord of the Manor
Lofotr Vikingmuseum
The surfer’s haven, the village of Unstad, Vestvågøy.
The surfer’s haven, the village of Unstad, Vestvågøy.
The surfer’s haven, the village of Unstad, Vestvågøy.
The surfer’s haven, the village of Unstad, Vestvågøy.
Valberg Church at Vestvågøy.
At the Lofotmuseum near Kabelvåg, Austvågøya. Skrovabua, built in Skrova in 1797, is a cabin used for the fishermen who took part in the annual Lofoten Winter fisheries.
At the Lofotmuseum near Kabelvåg, Austvågøya. Skrovabua, built in Skrova in 1797, is a cabin used for the fishermen who took part in the annual Lofoten Winter fisheries.
At Lofotmuseum near Kabelvåg, Austvågøya. Interior of a cabin used for the fishermen who took part in the annual Lofoten Winter fisheries. For the men in DHH’s family, this was their work and their life for decades.
At Lofotmuseum near Kabelvåg, Austvågøya. Interior of a cabin used for the fishermen who took part in the annual Lofoten Winter fisheries.
At Lofotmuseum near Kabelvåg, Austvågøya. Interior of a cabin used for the fishermen who took part in the annual Lofoten Winter fisheries.
At Lofotmuseum near Kabelvåg, Austvågøya. Interior of a cabin used for the fishermen who took part in the annual Lofoten Winter fisheries.
At the village of Reine at Moskenesøy
At the village of Reine at Moskenesøy
At the village of Reine at Moskenesøy
At the village of Reine at Moskenesøy
At the village of Reine at Moskenesøy
At the village of Reine at Moskenesøy
A lunch break in Svolvær, waiting for the ferry to the island of Skrova, seen here in the background.
The corona-warning on the ferry was outdated, to say the least. We travelled in August, and nobody in their sane mind had travelled between Norway and China since March.
The ferry «Røst» arriving Skrova from Svolvær.
At the island of Skrova. We lived in a converted sea house next to the ferry terminal
At the island of Skrova. From the living room of our sea house hotel we looked straight on to the upper decks of the passing ferry
Sunset at Skrova.
DHH’s grandfather took part of the Lofoten winter fisheries for 50 years. This postcard from the Skrova harbor anno 1930 is lifted form his photo album.
The ferry making a turn and leaving the Skrova terminal. The seahouse to the left is the same as on the 1930 postcard.
Vintage pictures from the Lofoten winter fisheries.
Vintage pictures from the Lofoten winter fisheries.
DHH’s grandfather took part of the Lofoten winter fisheries for 50 years. His boat is the grey vessel at the centre of this picture, taken ca 1935.
Skrova harbor ca 1935. From DHH’s grandfathers photo album. The house where we stayed can be seen right behind the big white sea house right of centre on this photo.
The same harbor view in 2020. The house where we stayed can be seen right behind the white sea house with the green roof. The white house with the red roof to the right, and the orange house in front of it, can also be seen on the photo from 1935.
At the island of Skrova. Stock fish.
At the island of Skrova. Coffee break outside our sea house hotel.
At the island of Skrova.
At the island of Skrova.
At the island of Skrova.
At the island of Skrova. The lighthouse.
At the island of Skrova. The lighthouse in 1934, lifted from DHH’s grandfathers photo album.
Leaving Skrova, heading for the mainland.
A rainbow framing the outhose and the barn of our family holiday home in Dønna.
Gathering firewood by the outhose
The kitchen still looks like it did when it was ruled by DHH’s grandmother some 30 years ago
Good neighbours are great to have around, especially those who serve beer!
At Dønna, September is too late in the year for the midnight sun. However, the midnight moon can also look good!
Workday done 